Knitting from an 1840s knitting book: A Cephaline / Sontag

A few weeks ago, I found a knitting book dated from 1846. The 180-year-old book is called My Knitting Book by Miss Lambert (first series), and contains 80 patterns for a range of accessories, stitch patterns and quilts. As a lover of old knitting patterns, I quickly decided to try making some of the things in this book. This pattern, the Cephaline or Sontag, was the first one that I attempted. Confusingly, a sontag is a historical garment, but it's a shawl or wrap that gained popularity in the 1860s. The bonnet that I made bears the same name, but I believe this predates the wrap by about 20 years. This pattern sits right underneath An Opera Cap, and uses the same border, making it possible that this was an elegant evening wear. As mentioned in The Art of Dressing Well (1870), "if a bonnet is worn, it must be of the lightest, airiest fabric and construction". Alas, I am no historian, so please do correct me if I am wrong.

So, how did the knitting go? Here are my notes about making the Cephaline / Sontag.

Needles

The original pattern calls for size 15 needles. According to my vintage Archers Bell needle gauge, the modern equivalent would be around 2.75mm needles. I used exactly that, and it seemed to be the perfect size for both the yarn and the project. 

It's worth noting that whilst the Archers Bell gauge looks very similar to the Filière gauge tool in My Knitting Book, I don't have any true way to know if it uses the same or different sizings. I'll be using the gauge tool as a rough guide, but also considering the yarn weight and what seems most logical. 

Yarn choice

The pattern specifies German wool in white and up to 5 other colours. I decided that 4-ply or fingering-weight yarn would likely be the most appropriate, especially given the needle size. I chose Jamieson & Smith's 2-ply Jumper Weight for my project as I thought that a rustic yarn like that would be era-appropriate. I followed the pattern, using white yarn (shade 1) as a border, then alternated white stripes with 2 shades of green (141 & 65). The yarn was nice to work with, and the colour combination was subtle but elegant. Overall, I used less than a ball of each colour. 

Pattern

The pattern starts by asking you to follow the border instructions on the previous pattern, An Opera Cap. The border is later sewn down - I did consider folding the edge and knitting it together, but I decided to follow the pattern and sew it at the end, which was simple enough to do. 

The stitch pattern was easy to follow, although the decreases needed to be thought out. Given the number of rows (44) and the number of stitches to decrease (30), I calculated that a decrease should be worked at the start of every 2 in 3 rows. I charted this out on Stitchfiddle alongside the stripe colour I needed, and whether it was a knit/purl row. I worked the decrease into the pattern, knitting the first 2 stitches together and then continuing as per the normal instructions. The decreases themselves were easy enough to make, but I did accidentally add some stitches. I yarned over towards the end of the previous row without offsetting it with a k2tog, which ultimately resulted in too few decreases followed by some serious frogging. 

The main pattern repeat asked you to YO, k2tog and then k1. To make sure the stitch pattern lined up in the same place each row, I made sure that my K1 stitch (or P1 on the wrong side) was made in the YO stitch from the previous row. This resulted in neatly stacked columns of stitches with more lacey, open eyelets either side. I also alternated colour every 2 rows. I wonder if the pattern would look different if you placed your k1 in a different place

At the end of the pattern, it asks you to repeat the border. I chose to knit this in reverse as this seemed the most logical. To finish, I sewed the border and added a satin ribbon in the shade hunter. This was harder to sew on - I folded over the end and then sewed the ribbon to prevent fraying, and then sealed the other end of the ribbon with a lighter. 

Final thoughts

The sontag/cephaline pattern was easy and very quick to make. I will admit that the decreases are harder than you might think - not in their making, but rather in the keeping track of when to incude them. The lace stitch is very pretty and also looks nice both ways, making the bonnet easily reversible. It might not be the most practical garment for the 21st century (I was very shy taking photos in it outside), but it's a lovely piece that is great for historical dress. I'd love to see what it'd look like in the traditional 5 colours. 

Monthly Makes - January: what's on my needles?

It's amazing how time escapes you when you get busy. My last post was in August of 2021, and it's now a new year and a very different world. I'm not all that surprised by my absence - I started my first proper teaching job back in September and being a teacher certainly comes with a great burden of work, stress and burnout. That's not to say that I haven't been enjoying it. I've just been busy. Back in August, I was also living in a cute little flat with a nice balcony that provided perfect lighting for taking photos. Now that I've moved out, I've found it harder to take decent photos, but I think I've finally found a good setup thanks to a photography workshop with Julie Crawford of Knitted Bliss. Anyway, I shouldn't really be listing excuses, I'm sure you're not here for that. You're here to find out about what I've been knitting. So, let's get on to my current WIP list.

Monthly Makes - July and August: what's on my needles?

It's been a busy couple of months this July and August, but not all that busy with regards to crafting. I'm afraid I've only finished two projects this month - a rather low total by my own standards. But I've more than made up for my lack of knitting with the amount of knitting-related books and accessories I've bought. During these summery months, I have been able to travel to a few different places. The South Coast, Yorkshire, London... each place has had at least one quaint craft shop and plenty of second-hand shops for me to find lovely little buttons, vintage knitting books and unique yarns. However, travelling around so much has come at a price - I haven't had as much time to actually knit! Partnered with the fact that I moved out of my flat last month, I've not had much time to spend on actual crafting. Nevertheless, I'll tell you all about the two items I've managed to finish this month, as well as some of my upcoming projects. 

Monthly Makes - June: what's on my needles?

The last month or so, I've been caught in somewhat of a whirlwind. Since my last post, I have finished my teacher training course and become a fully qualified teacher, I have (finally) found a job for the next academic year at a wonderful school and, most importantly, I have found an endless amount of crafting inspiration. Despite being busier than ever, the last few weeks have been full of creative opportunities and knitting inspiration. Perhaps it's the return to pre-covid life that has brought along this abundance of ideas. I have, after all, been able to attend yarn festivals and travel to local yarn shops, something that I have not been able to do for a long time. Fear not, for I shall tell you all about the exciting places I have been and the things I've made this month (including my first original design)!

Monthly Makes - May: what's on my needles?

Time has certainly flown by this month. It feels like only yesterday that I was writing my last Monthly Makes post. I guess that's what happens when you don't take the time to stop and appreciate the here and now. It's been quite a productive month in terms of knitting, and I'm quite happy to have finished at least one project this May. I currently have two projects on my needles, both of which are my own designs. I've had to dive headfirst into the world of knitting mathematics to determine things like armholes, set-in sleeve caps and necklines. It's been a difficult process, but one that I've enjoyed. Nevertheless, I'm hoping that next month's knitting escapades will be a little more relaxed and mindful. 

Free Knitting Calculator for Evenly Spaced Decreases

As any experienced knitter or crocheter may know, working out the maths behind evenly spaced increases or decreases can be a challenging task. Not every crafter is numerically gifted, and such complex maths puzzles can leave us completely perplexed. I myself have struggled to work out how to increase evenly in knitting and crochet projects - there are just too many numbers to keep track of! It's for exactly that reason that I decided to sit down and work out the maths to make my very own knitting increase calculator. Naturally, it would be selfish to keep such a useful tool all to myself, so I thought I would share it with the rest of the knitting community. I do hope that you find the knitting calculator useful - it's certainly been a lifesaver for some of my own knitting projects!  

Monthly Makes - April: what's on my needles?

I think that April has to be one of my favourite times of the year. The grass is scattered with daffodils and daisies, tiny green leaves are beginning to sprout on the trees and there's a hint of summer in the air. Following on from a difficult winter in lockdown, spring is certainly a welcome arrival this year. It's even more welcome to knitters and crocheters, as our winter projects are left to hibernate and lighter, breezier garments are cast onto our needles. Despite the weather in the UK flitting between 20˚ and light snow, I have already started to look ahead to a warmer climate, and my needles are currently holding nothing but summery items. I've just got one project on the go at the moment, but I'll be casting on a few more throughout the month.